Palm Sunday services at St. Mary the Virgin, that is. (I am going to services all week this week; even when I was totally out of the Church, Holy Week always held me in a sort of low-level awe. I realize now that I've never stopped observing this week, even during all those years.)
Two-and-a-half hours - an almost Orthodox experience. (I gather, at any rate; never actually been to an Orthodox service; it's always seemed somewhat pointless to go to a service where Communion is closed to me. Would like to go sometime, though, just to see.) Usually the congregation processes through Times Square after the reading of the Gospel appointed for the day, and after the Blessing of the Branches and the singing of Psalm 24:

Yesterday was rainy and cold, though, and the Rector declared it a "Sabbath Year." We stayed inside. So that was two-and-a-half hours without the Times Square procession.
I'd describe everything, but I'm sure most parishes did similar things yesterday. St. Mary's, though, is distinctive in several ways - and one is certainly the incense. They don't call it "Smoky Mary's" for nothing; this parish is exhuberant with incense; extravagant with it. It's used in every part of the service, and throughout the entire church; great clouds of it cover everything, and rise from everywhere towards that endlessly high vaulted ceiling. It's a great treat for me, because most of the services I attend don't use it; incense is just a wonderful sensory experience. The odor (and I can smell it now even as I'm describing this) is hugely evocative of Church - it's just not found anywhere else - and bits of music and the liturgy and the processions and the prayers come along with the memories of the smell. That's by design, I think.
The music for the day was wonderful: the glorious opening hymn "All glory, laud, and honor to thee Redeemer King." The chanting of Psalm 22 - the foretelling of the passion itself. And the choir sang a beautiful, dissonant mass setting by Persichetti - a fairly recent piece that sounds both modern and somehow also ancient.
The central part of the service, of course, is the chanting of "The Passion According to Saint Matthew, set to the traditional passion tone." A long, slow chanting of the story, with everyone involved - cantor, soloists, congregation, choir. A beautiful and solemn recitation; you move with Jesus through the prayers in the Garden, the betraying kiss, the arrest, the trials before the priests and Pilate, the crown of thorns, the carrying of the cross. Then all stand as Jesus arrives at Golgotha; all kneel in silence after he cries out and yields up His spirit. The tune is pretty much the same all the way through - until, strangely and beautifully, just after "Mary Magdelene and the other Mary were there, sitting opposite the sepulchre," when the music changes completely. At that point the scene shifts for just a moment to a confab between the priests and Pilate, where they worry about Jesus' rising again. Pilate orders a guard of soldiers to make the tomb secure. The tune here rises into a higher register, and there are now long runs of notes in the chant that weren't there before, up and down the scale. It's exciting, and I think anticipatory of the third morning and the Resurrection - but then the story just stops, as it has to on Palm Sunday. So we're left with this strange mixture of terror and unbelieving sorrow for the death of the Beloved, and an emotional excitement in the music, one that gets cut off to leave us at a higher pitch. That's how Holy Week starts, and it's very apropos, IMO.
Communion is deep, emotional, and rich today. It is truly communion.
The last hymn is the lovely "The royal banners forward go," a chant tune from the 6th Century, words by Venantius Fortunatus - words that contains all the original theology:
The royal banners forward go,
the cross shines forth in mystic glow;
where he in flesh, our flesh who made,
our sentence bore, our ransom paid.
Where deep for us the spear was dyed,
life's torrent rushing from his side,
to wash us in that precious flood,
where mingled water flowed, and blood.
Fulfilled is all that David told
in true prophetic song of old,
amidst the nations, God, saith he,
hath reigned and triumphed from the tree.
O tree of beauty, tree of light!
O tree with royal purple dight!
Elect on whose triumphal breast
those holy limbs should find their rest.
Blest tree, whose chosen branches bore
the wealth that did the world restore,
the price of humankind to pay,
and spoil the spoiler of his prey.
Upon its arms, like balance true,
he weighed the price for sinners due,
the price which none but he could pay,
and spoiled the spoiler of his prey.
O cross, our one reliance, hail!
Still may thy power with us avail
to give new virtue to the saint,
and pardon to the penitent.
To thee, eternal Three in One,
let homage meet by all be done:
whom by the cross thou dost restore,
preserve and govern evermore.
After the recessional, there is silence. A profound and moving silence, instead of the usual organ voluntary. Congregants - including myself, very moved and stricken - kneel again to pray before leaving. There is still incense in the air and there are palm branches strewn everywhere, all over the floor of the nave and the sanctuary.
All of these sensory things - the music, the incence, the colors of the vestments (a beautiful deep red), the palms, the chanting of the Passion - are meant to move us, to connect our bodies and minds and to hit us at a gut-level. And they do. They evoke all that Palm Sunday is: a strange in-between time between life and death - between joy and sorrow, hope and despair, darkness and light. A day whose tone I'd always taken as celebratory and jublilant - but which I now see as the prelude to, and the embodiment of, things much darker. "Hosanna!" means, I think, "Come save!" You realize what Jerusalem was like in those days: occupied by a foreign invader; the people expect a deliverer from this earthly conquest. But Jesus fulfills the Scriptures by riding into Jerusalem on an ass (
and on a colt, according to Matthew - a misreading, I'm told, of Isaiah's foretelling of this event!) - and the Scriptures also fortell the rest: "My God, my God, why have you forsaken me?"
This is the most emotionally hard-to-handle week of the year; the cognitive dissonance is profound - and that's a good thing, but still very difficult. I looked around the Church during the service and felt again, as I often do, the utter and complete strangeness - and in fact the absolute terror - of Christianity, and especially of this week that leads to the Crucifixion: it's a terror centered in the thought of the God of All Power and Glory - the Creator of the Universe - come to earth in the human form of a gentle healer, one who became poor and humble. God with us to live as the poorest and least lived, and to die as they died. To suffer - to be scourged and mocked, to be spit upon and to be left with nothing; to have nails driven through his hands and feet, and his poor naked limbs exposed to the elements: God come to earth to be nailed to the cross to die. I looked at the crucifixes on the wall yesterday and shivered, for the thousandth time.